I haven't written here in ages. I'd like to start again. Here are the things I wrote about when I was a stay at home mom with my sweet daughter. Now she's in kindergarten, I have a job away from home, and I dream about this all the time. Enjoy.
Noticing that time has passed
I finally broke down and got out my relief printmaking tools. I was looking at the work I've done so far for running snail & rainbow and noticing a glaring omission in the lineup: a wood block print. I only got to take one printmaking class in college, which is a great sadness to me, because if I had found the medium before second semester of senior year I would have most certainly taken another and another. I want presses and rollers and cranks, buckets of chemicals and plates of metal and glass, and I want to know how to use all of them. Even my painting professor thought that more printmaking would have been a good use of my time.
What he did not think was a good use of my time were my antics in the theatre department, dabbling in plays and entertaining the fantasy of becoming an actor. He saw that my work in the art studio suffered horribly when I split my creative focus. He had a point. But aside from his point, painting was just never my medium. I wanted it to be. Desperately. He was a brilliant teacher, and a brilliant artist. His use of color made you want to live behind his eyes forever. His world was vibrant, unexpected, beautiful. My problem was not understanding the color theory, or what all the different little tubes of paint and gels did. My problem was with the palette--it got so messy, and my brushes got so globby; it just wasn't how I think. The teacher probably unfairly blamed theatre entirely for my ineptitude, when really I just couldn't organize myself the way I needed to do interpret what I was seeing. Then one night, second semester of senior year, I was in the printmaking studio finishing up a project. He was grading portfolios in the adjoining studio and popped his head in. "Oh," he asserted, matter-of-factly, after having seen my woodblock prints, "you're a printmaker."
I don't know why I didn't touch my tools to a piece of wood for seven years. Figuring that out doesn't warrant any of my energy, so suffice to say that I've started a piece, for children (or not), about the four seasons. But I didn't want this bit of writing now to really be about that piece, since I don't want to give anything away yet. What I really wanted to talk about was yesterday afternoon.
I've begun to wonder how people who live in more-or-less season-less climates--you know, like the tropics--keep track of how time has passed. My entire internal clock is based upon how the light looks, the air feels and smells, and where I've spent the majority of my time. Yesterday afternoon, on an unseasonably warm spring day, I took my daughter into the backyard, filled up her little wading pool, and brought my wood carving supplies outside. She sat pouring water from one cup to another, and I carved my block of wood. I was struck how similar this was to an early evening last summer, an evening when I finally figured out how to capture a moment of quietness in her waking hours.
The two early evenings have so many things in common: the out of doors, the water, the long shadows, the rarity of the occasion. Yet they are so different. I didn't sit there like I did last year, stunned at the advent of motherhood, blinking in the light. I was able to do something for myself: carve out a few little bits of my woodblock. It wasn't much, but it was everything.
The rules of drawing and when to break them
It's so difficult to discern when you should adhere to or shirk your training. Perhaps this is where that thing called "balance" comes in to play. I don't know much about balance these days.
The two most valuable things I have learned from drawing:
1. Draw what you see, not what you know.There's a fascinating chapter in a book I read for an independent study once, all about the artistic developmental stages we go through as children, putting our world down on paper, with crayons, or colored pencils, or daddy's special pen. It's about where we put the horizon line and how we plant our trees in that ground. It's about how we translate what we experience into what we understand. We draw what we know, as children, not what we see. This chapter's been on my mind a lot, and I think I'll reread it soon. It's called "Growth."
2. Drawing is a plastic medium (by which every mark made is useful, but never final, and the eraser is a good friend).
Children draw fearlessly, innocently, intuitively. And then we go to school, learn about rules and how things work. We lose our intuition, and our world view becomes a collective homogenous world view. Then some of us go to art school and learn to draw what we see, to erase, to try again. We learn different kinds of rules. And then we go out into the world, and find that the rules we learned only sometimes help us express what we're seeing in our minds.
As with all rules, there are exceptions, and times to break them. Knowing when is impossible. There are invitations to be less realistic, more stylized, and more final. Drawing with a pen or carving into a block of wood has that finality. You have to move decisively because every mark, every cut, is permanent.
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| Part of a self portrait from 2005, my first relief printmaking class. |
And then there's drawing what you know instead of what you see. I guess you have to be communicating something pretty specific. You have to know where you're coming from and what you're trying to say. If you know all that, I think you've earned breaking the rule.
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| On the drawing board tonight: a bird that I see with feathers that I know. This fellow will be part of the favorite{red} postcard set. |
Send something yellow :: {new postcards}
My love of yellow began one summer when we painted our white kitchen and I set up a drafting table in the corner. I was 17, and it was the summer before my senior year in high school. I sat at my table, gazing at the vibrant wall in front of me, and began painting a giant orange poppy in homage to Georgia O'Keefe. Despite the fact that my mother thought that I was painting a giant tarantula, at first, everything that came out of my fingers, at that table, in front of that yellow wall, seemed good. This was surprising to me, and mostly to my Very Harsh Inner Critic, who usually managed to turn my best opinions to sludge. The only thing I could think was that the yellow wall was somehow helping me. It is, after all, the color of Creativity herself.
In honor of this color, and in celebration of nature waking to spring sunshine, I've made some postcards of my favorite yellow things: sunshine, trumpets, daffodils, birds, bees, and béarnaise sauce. As a side note, I should mention that the recipe on the béarnaise sauce card is the one tried, tested, and perfected by yours truly and that anyone receiving such a postcard might be glad to know that it's not just a pretty face...it's a real-live, functioning recipe.
Here are the yellow cards. Next up will be a red postcard set, and since I have fewer favorite things that are red, I might need your help, in the comments section, about what your favorite red things are.
What we do when we don't know what to do :: {new poster and postcards}
My daughter just had her second birthday earlier this week. It's unsettling to think how much she's accomplished in a year compared to how little I have. Now I know, helping her accomplish all of those things was an accomplishment for both of us, as parents, but nonetheless, I stand humbled and reflect in wonderment at what she's managed to do.
I was aided in my self-reflection with two horrendous earaches that lasted the better part of a fortnight which rendered me almost completely deaf. Actually, rather than say I was deaf, I would say that my hearing was inside out, so while I could not hear Heidi squeal with glee at her birthday cake, I could very much hear my own jaws chomping down on a huge slab of it (okay, two huge slabs). I'm afraid I got a bit dramatic about the whole deafness thing, and plunged full-force into a Beethoven-like state where all I wanted to do was feverishly work. I guess the big difference here, aside from the (obvious) real-vs.-temporary deafness, oh, and the genius factor, is that drawing doesn't require hearing at all, where music really, well, does.
We're also approaching a precipice of uncertainty, with unemployment popping its ghastly face up from around the next bend, so all I can think to do is draw, draw, draw. And, really, I guess that means I have made progress in the last year -- towards doing more of what I should be doing, and relying on it more to bolster me in times of distress and doubt. Next on the chopping block is that crippling perfectionism.
If you haven't seen it yet, here's the finished alphabet poster of musical instruments:
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| An A to Z of Musical Instruments -- available in four color stories. |
The next thing I'll be rolling out very soon are some postcards. They're all about the color yellow and how much I love it right now. (But of course, we'll do the rest of the rainbow as well!) Here's a sneak peek:
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| What? Béarnaise is yellow! I'm sure you know someone who would appreciate this postcard. |
Life in a Patty
Some generalities can always be made: about women, men, seagulls, you name it. And then there are always the exceptions to the rule. My exception to one such Generality About Being a Woman is that I'm a horrible multi-tasker. When I was in my twenties, I deluded myself that I was one capable of multi-tasking, and now that I'm safely thirty I have admitted to myself that I am a one-thing-at-a-time kind of person. Your twenties are for pretending who you want to be, and your thirties are for realizing who you actually are, I've decided. Now I can congratulate myself on my newfound maturity, and, at once, painfully wave farewell to the times gone by when I had the option of doing one thing at a time. Really, that time ended when I had a baby. Then I was doubly reminded that that time was over when she started walking. And then triply when she began climbing...and you see where I'm going. (You may also draw the logical conclusion when you see what time I posted this and every other blog post). I see other women juggling children at the grocery store, with their coupon binder, washed hair, and unstained clothes, and marvel at them. If you are one of these women, I salute you.
Of course, in a household with an actor, an artist, and a toddler, there's never one thing going at a time. And not only do I try to take the best care ever of my little girl, but I also try to do some things for myself (writing here, drawing there, bathing), then I have to earn some money (freelance graphic design work, helping out my photographer friend with some shoots), and still find time to put breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the table. It's at that time -- when the actor shows up for his far-to-short dinner break, and I realize I have no idea what to serve up, and the toddler starts getting cranky, and I realize that the day is almost gone and I've gotten maybe one thing done -- that's the time when I want to consolidate everything in my universe into a big life-shaped patty that I can eat one. mouthful. at. a. time.
Not possible, I know. But I can make dinner into a patty, and that's what I'm going to do:
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I'm starting a project called Life Burgers. I'm going to take all my favorite (mostly meatless) meals, put them into veggie-burger format, freeze them, and serve them up when all else fails. I'll be sharing the recipes here, of course, and I'd like you to weigh in, via the comments section, what you'd like to see in burger form. First up will be a Punjabi Red Kidney Bean Stew gone life burger: kidney beans spiked with ginger, garlic, coriander and cumin, with bits of bright tomato and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve it up with a dollop of yogurt and a sprig of cilantro (you know me). Then after that: a Southern Black-eyed Pea Life Burger with bits of bacon and ribbons of kale mixed in. Are you getting the idea? Stay tuned.
Living now, later
Perhaps it's a function of almost dying, perhaps it's young wisdom, perhaps it's completely normal, but there are times when I know I'm going to want to remember exactly how this feels. There have been a few times in my life, routines that I've been in, that I've saved, on purpose, in a vault in my mind. And I can get them out whenever I want and really feel them again.
I learned about classical conditioning for the first time in high school, but I didn't trust a single thing the teacher said, nor did any of us, when we found out his credentials included one college class in Psychology. I spent the whole semester devising a pulley system which would dump glue water and then a bucket of feathers on his head.
The next chance I got to learn about classical conditioning, I was paying attention. I remember all about the dogs and the bells and how it works. Basically, the guy who devised this had a bunch of hungry dogs. Before he fed the dogs, he would ring a bell. The dogs associated the bell with the food, so eventually when the guy rang the bell and then didn't give the dogs food, they drooled anyway. We're all like the dogs -- hearing a popular song from the eighth grade dance era should send us all reeling back to that time fraught with humiliation and cluelessness. We're also not like the dogs, because we can decide to do an experiment on ourselves. Which I do.
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| Indulging in my reverie, I never photographed the rain drops, but this person did. |
When I was interning at a graphic design firm in Zürich in my early twenties, I had premonition that I would want to remember the twenty minute train rides that book-ended my days stuffed with design, tango dancing, strong coffee-drinking, and coming of age. Frequently it rains in Switzerland because the clouds get stuck between the mountains, so most of the time the windows of the trains were streaked with water droplets scooting down the glass with the rhythm of the rails. Every time the conditions were like that, I would listen to Peter Gabriel's "I Grieve" through my headphones. The song was fittingly melancholy, terribly romantic, and beautiful like the gray landscape blurred out of the window. And lo, whenever I miss having that gift of time in my life, time to chase thoughts, or not think at all, I play the song and am there again.
Things that come to mind, and the people who come with them :: {Portugese Bread and Garlic Soup}
Christmas tree pick-up was this morning. We dragged ours out to the curb, and looked up and down the street at the other dejected trees patiently waiting in the January drizzle. Christmas decorations have all been stowed and the house looks a bit empty, like it's waiting for the spring sunshine to fill the empty corners.
This is the time of year that I wish I remembered how to knit. I've learned a bunch of times. Once when I was very small I managed to complete a set of wrist-warmers. These might be a Swiss phenomenon, but if you can remember that fingerless gloves still can keep your fingers warm, imagine how hand-less gloves might keep your hands warm. The point is, they do. Another time I learned to knit was my freshman year in college, when one of my hall-mate's dad's taught us. It was January term, which meant we only had to take one class, and it was pass/fail. We had lots of time on our hands. In the evenings, we would all gather in one room, listen to Barry White, and knit. I have absolutely no recollection of what I was even working on. I doubt any of us do.
My great aunt, who had a story more harrowing than most, was a great knitter. She knit me an army of pink sweaters when I was little. I especially liked it when she chose yarn that had sparkles in it. Throughout her difficult life she managed to maintain a child-like joyfulness, so I wouldn't be surprised if she chose the pink sparkly yarn for her benefit, as well as mine. She was also a great maker of Schnitzel, and I fondly remember going over to her apartment to eat a huge steaming platter of it, decorated with lemon slices and served with potatoes, bread, and a salad. After lunch, she would knit while all the grown-ups talked. She's the only person I think I'll ever meet who actually kept her current knitting project tucked in her bosom. This fascinated me as a young girl, and it was as good as a magic trick when she would reveal first one arm, then two, then the entirety of a full-sized sweater from her voluminous cleavage.
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| Tante Emmy and Onkel Paul ready for feasting. Note the amount of Schnitzel she prepared for three people. |
She left our family a great legacy -- she was the only one of her siblings who was strong enough to recount the stories from the war, the only one brave enough to face life with perpetual cheer and generosity. Perhaps one of these Januaries I'll relearn how to knit again, perhaps when my daughter's old enough to do it, too. Until that happens, I have a big box of pink sweaters, some with sparkles, that I hope Tante Emmy sees my little girl wearing, wherever she is. They would have had a good time together, those two.
Portuguese Bread and Garlic Soup
This soup is many things: it is fast, frugal, a good use for stale bread, delicious, simple, comforting, and healthy. As with most simple things, the quality of the ingredients is crucial, but these are all things that you either have on hand, or are easy to find. You can have dinner on the table in 10 minutes. Adapted, barely, from The Mediterranean Kitchen.
Cut thick slices of day-or-two-old crusty bread, a piece or two per person. Heat a soup pot (or a small pot if it's just you) over medium-high heat and add a pretty generous glug of good olive oil (probably about 1-2 tablespoons per person). When the oil is hot, fry the bread in a single layer (do as many batches as it takes), on both sides, til nice and golden. Remove bread and rub with the cut side of one clove of garlic (per serving). Place bread in soup bowl. Add another glug of olive oil to the pan, roughly chop the garlic you just used, and add it to the pot. Garlic burns quickly, so stir it around for only about 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add a soup-bowl-full (per serving) of chicken or veggie broth (homemade if possible) to the pan and bring to a simmer. Lower heat to medium and crack an egg (per serving, and one at a time) into a cup or small ramekin and carefully slide into the simmering broth. Use a spoon to nudge the whites around the yolks. Cook for 3-5 minutes, or until the whites are completely opaque. Repeat with as many eggs as you need, but cook no more than two eggs at a time. Ladle an egg into each soup bowl, adjust the seasoning of the broth with salt and pepper to taste. Divide the broth evenly amongst your soup bowls. You can enjoy this as is, or you can garnish with chopped parsley or cilantro, red pepper flakes, or Parmesan cheese.
How to draw with children, for non-majors :: {roasted tomatoes}
In our house, drawing is a team effort. The grown-ups do the outlines, and Heidi the Toddler colors (read: scribblesveryenthusiastically) inside, outside, and on top of the lines. It's like an on-demand coloring book. I used to be the only Outline Draw-er, my theatre-major husband clutching his chest as he exclaimed how he wished he could draw, but alas!, Mama will have to draw the cat. Again. It got to the point where I was drawing about 50 cats a day. Heidi would thrust a crayon in my hand and shout, "MEEEEEOOOOOW!!!!!!" and I would draw a cat for her to scribble upon. I am incapable of denying her artistic desires.
As it turns out, however, that heart-clutching wish of my husband was easy enough to grant. I devised a Very Easy way to draw a cat taught him to do it. And now I will teach you, just in case your 2012 resolutions include drawing more with the children in your life.
Without further ado....the Very Official Running Snail & Rainbow Way to draw a cat, dog, bunny, owl, and frog (you're more than welcome to right click to download the images, print them out, keep them handy):
Roasted Tomatoes
Adapted, barely, from The Italian Country Table, which, as I've said before, is a book you should own. Enjoy these when it's not tomato season -- transform a can or two of lowly plum tomatoes into meaty, intense, luxurious, and supremely versatile gems. As a bonus, these smell almost as good as bacon when they're cooking. Almost.
Open two cans of plum tomatoes, squeeze them gently, and pry in half with your fingers. Place close together on a lightly olive-oil-ed baking sheet. Drizzle with some more olive oil and season with salt and pepper. If you want to get fancy, you can sprinkle on some fresh or dried herbs, or tuck large slivers of garlic between the tomato halves. Place in a 300° oven for 1.5-2 hours. Check after 1.5 hours to make sure your edges are not burning.
Cover with oil and store in the fridge for up to three days, or freeze for up to three months.
Things to do with roasted tomatoes:
- Marinate in olive oil with fresh herbs (like rosemary or thyme), garlic, and chilies. Serve with an antipasto spread.
- Purée and use as a sandwich spread: think tuna melts, grilled cheeses, hummus and veggie sandwiches.
- Purée and use in place of sauce on your next pizza
- Toss with whole wheat spaghetti, walnuts and garlic toasted in olive oil, and serve with a generous glop of ricotta on top (this is my favorite).
- Use in any recipe that calls for sun-dried tomatoes.
- Stir purée into hummus, cream cheese, or greek yogurt for a great dip.
- Stir purée into mayo or aioli for another fab sandwich spread. Try it on a burger.
And may all your books come true :: {Pepparkakor}
There are a few books from childhood that linger in the back of one's consciousness as one grows. They can inform anything and everything; sometimes both, and all at once; sometimes without you knowing it, and sometimes creeping up on you later.
One of my favorites, especially at this time of year, is "The Runaway Sleigh Ride" by Astrid Lindgren (which I'm horrified to discover is now out of print, so if you find a copy, POUNCE!). It's about a little girl with wild curly hair who goes to town to go Christmas shopping, hops on the rails of a strange sleigh, and gets carried off into the woods on a snowy evening and has to find her way home.
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| Beautifully illustrated -- a requisite in our library -- by Ilon Wikland. |
I owe this book lots of things, but here are three of them:
1. My love of Pepparkakor, the crackly-thin Swedish ginger cookies that perfume the house on the evening of their annual bake. Almost as much as eating them, I love the way the dough holds smudges of white flour top as you cut them into beautiful Christmastime shapes. There's an illustration in the book with flour-smudged Pepparkakor, and it's perfectly imperfectly beautiful.
2. The dark winter night pressing against the windows. This book evokes all the romance, mystery, and coziness of black evenings, and, in the midst of winter, when we all crave a bit more sunlight, the imagery helps me embrace the 4:00 twilight.
3. This book is what makes "Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening" by Robert Frost my favorite poem. I like to think of Frost's poem as the grown-up counterpoint to this story. Almost as if the girl, now a woman, goes back to the woods where she was once lost and listens to the silence of the snow falling. This time, she might rather stay in the woods a while longer. There's always been something sublimely sensual about both the children's book and the Frost poem, and I can't recommend highly enough that you set out to read them back to back. Preferably with freshly-baked Pepparkakor in hand.
Pepparkakor
This is a prized recipe to my family, coming from a dear friend and real Swede, Lisa. We spent one magical Christmas in Sweden with her and her family, one with dark nights, meatballs, and plenty of spicy cookies. The dough is to rest for 24 hours before baking. It also freezes well. The measurements are in grams, but if you have a kitchen scale, this will be no problem for you.
100 g unsalted butter
125 g sugar, half light brown, half white
100 mL molasses
2 Tbsp dried ginger
1 tsp cloves
1 Tbsp cinnamon
1 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp baking soda
100 mL heavy cream
500 g flourMix butter, sugars, and molasses til creamy. Add the spices and baking soda. In another bowl, beat the cream til foamy. Add to the butter mixture. Fold in the flour. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and let rest for 24 hours, or freeze until ready to use. Take out the dough, roll very thinly -- about 1/8" thin (with plenty of flour, or between sheets of waxed paper). Cut out with pretty cookie cutters and place an inch apart on a buttered baking sheet. Bake at 175 Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) for 8-10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack and store in tins.
The Thankful Thanksgiving Post :: {Brining your Bird}
I had another blog post in the works. One about how I was paralyzed, and then I realized that it's actually really hard to write about that, even though I love talking about it. But really, I'm just happy that I'm not paralyzed anymore and haven't been for twelve (twelve!) years. I'm thankful for the doctors that made it so.
October was a dark, grim, bad month, and I've catapulted myself out if it, with sheer resolve, and a little help from my friends. And what happens when you put your mind to something? Lots. Lots of ideas and creativity flowing out and about like crazy. I've got worlds of ideas, as it were.
I want to get all the ideas out on paper, but I only know how to draw with my left hand. Could I be twice as fast if I used both? Right now I'm working on a poster called "I live here." I figure, if I was the kind of kid who counted the steps of the Eiffel Tower as I climbed them, it might be of general interest to some kids to know how far away they live from the Great Barrier Reef, the Matterhorn, or the Chocolate Hills. One of the things from my childhood for which I'm most grateful is that curiosity of other places and cultures was nurtured. I want to give that curiosity to other kids -- in a poster!
Then suddenly tonight I thought that felt boards should no longer be relegated to the Sunday School room. I mean, it's like velcro, but doesn't get hairs stuck in it! It's like a puppet theatre, but you don't have to hold all the puppets in your hand! Now I have to figure out how to make one.
Then there's the alphabet poster, which I have an idea for, of course, and toys! Puzzles, architecture blocks, lacing animals...
I'm thankful that I have all these ideas. I may never get to them all because my body limits me, but I wouldn't trade all the ideas in my head for a pain-free body. I wouldn't even trade it for a pain-free body and a trip around the world.
Most of all, as I write tonight, and as I'm about to draw some more, I'm grateful for a little group of friends that I have here in Staunton. You might recognize them from their enthusiastic thumbs up to everything I post on the running snail & rainbow facebook page. Thanks, ladies. I'm lucky to know you all.
Turkey Brine
I think brining is a must for turkeys. It makes the meat super moist, seasons it inside and out, and makes it cook faster. If you think you don't have the equipment necessary to submerge your beast and keep it cold, look no further than your crisper drawer. That's right. The drawer with all the limp carrots in it. Empty it out, give it a good clean and put your cooled brine in there. I have learned the hard way that you ought to reinstall the drawer before pouring the brine in the drawer. And before you pour the brine in, put your turkey in the drawer. I learned that the hard way too, and spent the next 15 minutes mopping overflowed brine off the floor.
I've tried a bunch of brine recipes, and when push comes to shove, don't put fancy booze in your brine. Save that for deglazing the pan and making your gravy. Don't even bother with apple cider. You can't taste it. What you will taste in your brine are various aromatics and spices, so add those with wild abandon.
The following is very loosely adapted from Martha Stewart Living, November 2001.
Fill a large pot with 8 cups (or so) of water, 4 cups kosher salt, 5 cups sugar, 3 bay leaves, 1 head garlic (cut in half cross-wise), 2 tablespoons whole peppercorns, 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon ground cloves, 1 teaspoon allspice. Bring all of this to a boil, stirring until all the sugar and salt are dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely before emptying into your clean crisper drawer. Add water to cover the bird completely. Refrigerate from 18-24 hours, flipping your bird over halfway through.
My Top Five Cookbooks
I have so many cookbooks, and I love all of them, despite the fact that I almost never follow recipes. It's a carefully curated collection, most of which have been gifted to me by my mother. Five years ago (with no baby and an employee discount at a gourmet grocery), the more complicated the recipe, the better. The more steps and more dishes dirtied, the better. The more obscure ingredients, the better. Mind you, I still love cracking into a really involved dish with rare (read: pricey) ingredients, but these days, cooking has become more of a job and less of a hobby. Money's tighter, having a kid and all, husband needs to be fed before he rushes out the door, and I have other things I should be doing. I've even embraced leftovers. My relationship to food has changed.
I enjoy the job of cooking, as long as I stick to my principles. They are:
1. We shall not eat the same thing more than two days in a row.
2. I shall cook food from at least 3 different countries every week.
3. We shall defy our mingy food budget by eating dazzlingly tasty food.
4. We shall eat food that both makes us healthy and happy. Sometimes these two things are mutually exclusive, and that's okay. In the end, it all balances out.
Armed with my principles, here are the five cookbooks that I constantly reach for, every week, when I'm doing my menu planning/grocery list (which is the only way to stick to a food budget and also not go out of your mind at dinner time every night). The trick to meal planning, I've found, is to pick one dish you're really excited about cooking, write down all the ingredients you need, and then base your other meals off of what you'll have left after preparing that meal. For example, you might have half a head of cabbage left, or part of a box of chicken stock. You get the idea.
1. How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman: This is the book that should replace The Joy of Cooking in your cookbook library (unless you have one of the vintage versions with possum recipes inside). My favorite thing about this book is that it's for all ability levels, it's totally straight forward, and most (if not all) recipes have several variations. I know several people who have learned to cook from this book. My brother, in fact, is one of these people, and he and his old house-mates used to refer to it as the gospel according to Mark. It also comes in a vegetarian version, if that's your thing.
2. The Italian Country Table: Homecooking from Italy's Farmhouse Kitchens by Lynne Rossetto Kasper: This book is totally inspired, though it's not hard to guess why, given the subject matter. One thing I value most in a cookbook is when there are recipes for things that I can't dream up on my own. This book has that in spades. Also, the author really teaches you about ingredients, wine pairings, and all that kind of food nerd stuff which I love so much. This is the book that taught me about putting veggies in with your pasta water when you make pesto. It also contains the only cake I have ever successfully made: chocolate polenta cake, laced with orange and insanely delicious (and gluten free!). You didn't think you could eat like this outside of Italy. You can, and the best part is that you made it yourself.
3. The Mediterranean Kitchen by Joyce Goldstein: This is not a completely authentic Mediterranean cookbook, but the author skips around the rim of this flavorful region, touching on all the great dishes, putting her spin (and a healthy glug of olive oil) on them, and offering thoughtful cooking methods and years of expertise as a chef along with them. This book will really teach you how, say, Turkish flavors differ from Spanish ones, and I've learned, as a result, how to improvise on these different cuisines. For example, the chicken tagine dish I shared with you is a riff on her lamb tagine with lemon and olives. Everyone loves Mediterranean food, and this is a great place to start.
4. World Vegetarian by Madhur Jaffrey: Just because you love bacon doesn't mean you shouldn't own this cookbook. We all need to be less meat-centric in our meals, and with the huge, satisfying flavors that Jaffrey offers, you won't miss the meat. I credit this woman with teaching me how spices really work, how they work together, how much to use, how to grind, store, shop for, etc. And once you know how spices work, literally worlds unfold in your cooking. It might seem a little daunting and expensive to collect all those different bottles of powders and seeds, but if you do it slowly over time, and maintain a good stock, you can make most of these dishes with very inexpensive ingredients. The chapter on beans, for example, is brilliant because each and every recipe tastes so different. A lot of the recipes are quick to make, too, and they're all healthy, colorful, and delicious. This cookbook helps me stick to principle number two (see above).
5. The Food Matters Cookbook by Mark Bittman: I really didn't want to have two books by the same author on this list, but after waffling around for ages, I've finally admitted to myself (and you) that this is a really important book to have. As soon as I cracked it open, I was thrilled to see that basically what this book is, is the way I try to cook all the time: economically and healthily. Instead of having to flip quickly past the giant steak recipe, wiping the drool from the pages, I get chapter after chapter of recipes I can a) afford to make, b) want to make, and c) should be making. My refried bean recipe offers a suggestion of putting kale in your burrito. That's from this book. I think he actually might be able to impact how America is eating, and that would be a wonderful thing.
Honorable Mention: Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child: I own this book, and there are some things that only Julia should teach you how to do. But let's face it, we shouldn't be eating this way all week, as much as we might want to. Kudos, Mrs. Child, for all you've done for cooks across America, and here's to many artery-clogging generations to come!
The Frog Prince :: {Red Pasta Sauce}
I was the girl in high school who painstakingly crafted mix tapes, who got to school at 7am for string ensemble practice, and who never didn't have music playing in the background. Favorites of mine in high school included pretty much anything from the 70's, thanks to the influence of the ganja-smoking art room crowd with whom I shared all of my time (unless I was in the music room). We all ate lunch in the art room, too, using the batik wax-melting device to cook grilled cheese sandwiches. Our art teacher knew we needed somewhere to be, and she didn't mind, as long as we cleaned the burnt on cheese off of the art supplies. She let us play music, too. We all took turns bringing our favorite albums. As my parents' luck would have it, I was friends with the non-ganja-smoking minority group of the art room crew. The most trouble we really got up to was rearranging people's lawn ornaments or planting cans of Campbell's Chunky Beef Soup around the town when it was below freezing, so the soup would expand and explode out of the can. Chunky Beef was chosen because it looked the grossest, of course. So we clean cut art-room folks listened the hazy 70's music and totally thought we had all been born in the wrong decade, man. But we also listened to swing music and crooner stuff. The nineties were actually a great time for that, and we wore wingtip shoes, took swing dancing lessons, and sang Frank Sinatra songs in the car as we cruised around with our cans of soup.
These great standard songs still have their appeal for me. When I'm not sure what I'm in the mood to listen to, usually a little Frank Sinatra or Bobby Darin does the trick. So as it happened, as I was finishing "Fill My Heart with Song", I was listening some crooner playlist or other, and "You're Nobody til Somebody Loves You" came on. The rest is history:
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| "You're Nobody 'til Somebody Love You" -- especially if you're the frog prince. |
Red Pasta Sauce
Also known as: I finally figured out how to make a quick pasta sauce from cheap canned tomatoes (a staple in our house)! This comes together so quickly, and you probably have most of the ingredients in your fridge right now.
This sauce starts with bacon, so we're already on our way to success. Glaze the bottom of your preferred pan or pot with olive oil and place over medium-high heat. Chop about six slices of bacon (or more or less to your taste) and one yellow onion. Add these to your pan, stirring sort of frequently to keep things from sticking. While the bacon is rendering and the onions are softening and everything is smelling heavenly, grate one large or two small carrots and throw them in the pan with the bacon and onions. Stir it all around and head back to your chopping board. Finely chop about four garlic cloves and a small handful of oregano leaves. Add them to the pan and cook everything together, making sure the garlic doesn't burn, for about two minutes. Now throw in about three big soup spoonfuls of balsamic vinegar. Scrape the bottom of your pan with a wooden spoon as the vinegar cooks down, getting up all those delicious brown bits (they're called sucs (pronounced: soox) -- isn't that a great little word?). Lower the heat to medium. Open your big can of plum tomatoes, and pour some of the juice into the pan to keep things from burning while you attend to your tomatoes. Take your immersion blender, if you have one, and wizz it around inside the can, making a chunky purée. If you don't have an immersion blender, just break the tomatoes up with your hands. The reason you don't buy purée outright is because they use the highest quality tomatoes from the harvest in the cans of whole tomatoes, and as you go down the line of canned-tomato-textures, the quality of tomato used gets poorer and poorer. Pour your chunky puree in to the pan, stir everything around, season with a hefty pinch of salt, some cracked pepper or pepper flakes, and let the whole thing simmer for the amount of time it takes you to cook your pasta (around 10 minutes). Check for seasoning, toss with pasta, and serve with lots of grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano on the side.
{Other things you could add to this sauce: capers, olives, anchovies (add the anchovies with the carrots), and adjust your salt accordingly -- you'll need less.}
Do-over :: {chili oil and cure-all carrot salad}
The best thing I did in the entire month of October was stuff a bottle full of habanero peppers and smashed garlic cloves, cover it all with olive oil, and let it sit on the window sill.
The rest of the month was a mixture of saddening, angering, demoralizing, painful occurrences. We had (in no particular order) a death in the family, a job loss, an ambiguous medical diagnosis...and then at the very end of the month it snowed. In Virginia. Maybe it was just a weird month. I suppose there were bright spots, too. I mean, I know there were, but I also had four colds over the course of the month, so the chances of something lovely happening at the same time as I had a cold was high, if not guaranteed. I want a do-over.
I think it was the aforementioned chili oil that finally cured me of my colds, though. After a month of wallowing and getting nothing done and feeling stuffy and achy and out of control, I picked myself up, went in the kitchen, grated myself two gigantic carrots, doused them with the chili oil, a clove of crushed garlic, the juice of a lemon, and some chopped fresh ginger and plenty of salt. I ate my carrots, cleaned all the dishes, swept the kitchen floor, and looked forward to a new month.
More introductions
After a bit of silence on my end, I've got another creation for my Etsy store.
I had the idea for this piece ages -- well, months -- ago, around the time I decided to open an online store and take matters into my own hands. For a brief time (though the brevity of time paled to the intensity of it), I couldn't fall asleep at night because of all the ideas that would flash through my brain. I couldn't start working on the ideas, though, because my head would be clouded with the next idea, and the next, and the next. I wrote them all down; some in a book by my bed, some on my computer, some on scrap sheets that litter the refrigerator. Eventually I had to stop myself from dreaming and start whittling away at the list. That's always the hard part for me. The ideas rush in like a geyser, but sitting down and making them exist on paper is like milking a rock. I guess part of that is because I'm afraid I can't translate what's in my head onto the paper. Sometimes it's because parts of the project still haven't been imagined. Either way, when I told my husband that I had a pretty good idea about what I wanted "Fill my heart with song" to look like, he stared at me in that maddening way he does when I know he's about to say something I a) already know but have been trying to forget, or b) don't know, but should, and said, "Well then why haven't you drawn it yet?" (This instance, I'm ashamed to say, falls under option b). I scuffled off, muttering wordless sounds of bruised pride and humiliation, and set to work.
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| This is, in fact, what a song-filled heart looks like (it also comes in black & white). Get it here. |
As luck would have it, this project flew out of my fingers with little to no sweat or tears. And for once I was able to shut off the graphic design side of my brain that wants me to trouble shoot how this creature gets in and out of his suit. I'm actually delighted that I have no idea what kind of creature this is, let alone how it gets its suit on and off. Is it a flightless fairy? Who knows -- these things I cannot put words to, and that's what makes them have a life of their own.
Adventures in an ill-equipped kitchen :: {mashed cauliflower}
Just because we're artists doesn't mean we're starving, though the way several of our kitchens have been outfitted, you'd think that were meant to be the case. When my husband and I were dating, he lived in actor housing. This meant he got a room with a bed (which sometimes included another person and a bed for them, and whatever strange habits they might have had), and all the actors shared a bathroom and kitchen. Living in actor housing meant not having a lease, so that when the acting contract ended he could pack up and move at a day's notice. One time that even happened; one day he was here, and the next day he was in Washington DC. Anyway, everything fit into his tiny car: clothes, big Shakespeare books, and a computer. I'm sure had I been living the nomadic actor lifestyle (which I promptly swore to never do as soon as I met my husband) there would have been about five kitchen appliances that I would take with me, too, even if it meant I could only take one pair of pants. But alas and alack, his affections did not that way turn, so I had to make do with the "pots," "knives," and "cutting boards" that the various theatres provided. I'm telling you, these things must have either come from a giant doll house or from the props department, because they were definitely not designed for cooking use. When he lived in DC, his kitchen was even worse -- a galley wide enough for a small French woman -- maybe. I really didn't step foot in there. I couldn't handle it. So I would travel the three hours on the Greyhound bus to see him every weekend with trays of lasagna on my lap.
Another horrible kitchen was in our house-share in England. We had been married a year and moved over there with clothes, big Shakespeare books, and computers. I would have brought my Top Five kitchen things, but we were promised that the kitchen was "well-equipped." The only thing this kitchen was, in fact, equipped for, was burning your dinner on the thinner-than-aluminum-foil pans, opening wine bottles (which helped to wash down your burnt dinner), and making tea (those supplies did, in fairness, get put to a lot of use). One time I was making Thanksgiving dinner for all of our non-American housemates and some American friends, and I was cutting the bread to make stuffing with an awful little bendy serrated knife, and the knife slipped (since it wasn't sharp enough to grip even soggy-crusted British bread) and almost hacked a good quarter inch off of my finger. I bled all over the place, including the bread, jumped around the kitchen in a fit, and called my husband and made him leave class early. He arrived at home minutes later, to find me sitting in the bloody bread cube-scattered kitchen with my arm above my head and my hand wrapped in some kind of inappropriate bandage -- like a pot holder or something -- with a very injured expression on my face. We went out the next day and bought better knives.
So here is my list of the top five kitchen things you should have at your disposal in any kitchen, whether you're going off to grad school in a foreign land or renting a house by the sea for a week's vacation. These are most definitely listed in order of most crucial to least:
2. A really sharp 8-inch chef's knife. Second only to a good pan is a good knife. I think the 8-inch chef's knife is the most versatile. You can hack through a chicken, chop herbs, make quick work of dicing up onions and garlic, you can use the side of it like a mallet to pound meat cutlets.. Some people are really partial to Santoku knives, which are really the Asian incarnation of the chef's knife. I like to use my Santoku knife when I make fake Asian food, because it makes me feel ironically authentic.
3. A good, thick, heavy cutting board made from wood or bamboo. I don't believe in plastic cutting boards. Things slide around on them, they slide around on the counter, and after a while little bits of plastic start getting hacked up by the chopping and they get in your food. "But what about all the Scary Bacteria?" you ask. It's actually been proven that wood is a cleaner cutting surface; somehow wood ejects bacteria from its surface. Obviously I do a nice hot soapy wash after raw meats, but I've never had a problem with The Germs.
4. An immersion blender. It's portable, and you can make food different consistencies with it!! Of course, the ideal is to have a food processor, blender, and Kitchen Aid mixer, but I've been making do with an immersion blender for years. Use it to make aioli, pesto, pureed soups, smoothies, milkshakes, baby food, etc.
5. A wooden spoon. It's the first utensil humans ever made, and for good reason. Also, they feel nice to hold in your hand, and they're safe for your baby to chew on.
Mashed Cauliflower
I did this as an experiment and we all declared it more delicious than mashed potatoes. I don't know if you'll agree, but you should try it just in case! This is a time to crack out the immersion blender; you won't get the nice smooth consistency without it. I think this was quicker to prepare than mashed potatoes, too, because there's no peeling involved. Bonus.
Cut up one head of cauliflower and boil it until it's very tender when you poke the stem with a knife. (You could steam it, too, if you're so inclined.). Drain it very well. Return it to the pot, place over very low heat, and add 2/3 brick of cream cheese and half a stick of butter. Puree with your handy immersion blender (or food processor, or mash by hand). If it seems too thick, thin with a bit of milk or cream. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and freshly grated nutmeg.
Hello, world
I don't have a story tonight, or a recipe, or any of the usual things. What I do have, for the first time ever, is an Etsy store. I could go on for pages acknowledging people, thanking them for their patience and inspiration, but I'd rather just show you what I've got to offer so far. The photos were taken by my amazing friend and cohort Lindsey Walters of Miscellaneous Media Photography. Thanks to everyone past, present, and future who supports me doing this. You know who you are.
And now.....Weather Mouse!
Firsts :: {lemony spinach salad}
Tonight my daughter Heidi figured out that she could chew raw leafy greens. She's been reaching for my salad for months now, but before she would just suck the dressing off, or sometimes almost choke on a leaf that she tried to swallow whole. Tonight she tried again. She sucked off a few leaves (thoughtfully draping the spent leaves back in my bowl), and then she realized that it tasted even better if she chewed the leaf up. She sat in my lap, feeding me a leaf and then herself a leaf, wiping lemon juice and olive oil all over everything and both of us, and laughing at the sourness of my hastily made, poorly balanced salad dressing. Perhaps "first salad" is not an achievement many parents consider a milestone, but we all have different values.
I also couldn't wait to get a crayon in her little hands. I offered them to her months prematurely, just because I didn't want her to miss a moment of drawing pleasure just because we didn't have the right materials at hand (and by "at hand," I mean quite literally placed on the play table next to whatever else she was doing). We spent a few months practicing not eating the crayons, then we practiced gripping them and applying pressure to the paper. (We're still practicing staying on the paper and off the furniture, books, and clothes.). Once she knew what the crayons were for, she caught on pretty quickly. Then on July 21, 2011, she did something amazing. She drew a dog.
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| "Do[g]" | Crayon on Mama's leftover newsprint from figure drawing class. | 7.21.11 |
My first titled drawing, as you might already be aware, was "running snail and rainbow" (I was a tad linguistically precocious). When I couldn't decide what to name my Etsy store, and I was over-thinking it horribly, and trying in vain to be clever and catchy, I remembered with what authority Heidi had told me that what she had just drawn was a dog. "Do[g]." Period. My mother reports that I said "running snail and rainbow" with the same sort of authority, and since I can't imagine that I've ever had that much confidence about anything since then, I thought the name was perfect.
Heidi's first "Dog" hangs framed on the wall, and several other dogs, cats, horses, balls, and "softs" are filling up the rest of my abandoned newsprint pad left over from college. This weekend I'm opening running snail & rainbow, and it'll be another big first for me.
Lemony Spinach Salad
This is what you should eat when you crave something that tastes like a tasty nutrient bomb. I eat it when I'm sick, when I'm well, when I'm sad, and when I can't think of what else to eat.
Make your dressing: combine one crushed clove of garlic, a forkful of dijon mustard, a soup-spoonful of yogurt, a pinch of salt, two soup-spoonfuls of extra virgin olive oil, and a soup-spoonful of lemon juice. Stir or whisk it together. Adjust the flavors to your preference, adding more lemon or more oil or more salt til it tastes perfect to you. I (obviously) like mine on the lemony side. Toss with spinach. Eat it and be happy and well.
Blaming your tools :: {bearnaise sauce}
Whoever said that thing about a good craftsman never blaming their tools can't have been a craftsman. Or if he was, he had good tools. Anyway, I've found that sometimes one does blame one's tools, and that's perfectly respectable.
My culinary Everest for years was Bearnaise sauce, that sublime invention only the French could have conceived as a vehicle to increase your butter consumption -- something designed to make steak, which really needs nothing but salt, seem incomplete without it. Made properly it's velvety, tangy, delicately scented, at once subtle and commanding. A failed attempt is grainy, sharp, and nothing short of disgusting.
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| Perfect Bearnaise, every time, at Harry's Grill Bar. I took this picture, and then I got to lick out the bowl. |
You can see where this is going. The tool I'm going to blame this time was the stove. It was a gas stove, but the low setting was really only low if you compared it to the high setting. It was a relative low. The sauce broke because the heat was too high and the eggs essentially scrambled. All this happened moments after my brother's girlfriend arrived. I was whisking the sauce like a maniac, peering into the pot expectantly, and then suddenly I saw it beginning to seize up. I let out a sustained, high pitched yelp, whisked even more frantically, turned from pink-faced to red, and, still yelping, flung the whisk into the ruined sauce and fled from the kitchen, through the length of the house, to the front door where I collapsed in a pile (still yelping), wrapped myself in the curtain, and summoned forth a howl with the small amount of air remaining in my lungs, "It broooooooooooooke."
My mother, who had been engaging in beautifying rituals upstairs, heard my heartbroken cries and scrambled to my rescue. "It's all ruined. I'm not eating. The whole dinner is ruined," I blazoned from inside the curtain. Somehow, like only a mother can, she managed to fix the situation, the sauce, and apparently even the poor girlfriend's opinion of our crazy family.
Fast forward a decade and several dozen more failed attempts at Bearnaise sauce and I found myself waitressing at an upscale steakhouse restaurant in England. It was there that I learned the many secrets of a perfect, unbreakable Bearnaise, even when your tools are to blame.
Bearnaise Sauce
The secrets to unbreakable Bearnaise are: a heavy pan, low heat, clarified butter, and a whisk (not a fork -- trust me). You can do this.
First of all, gather all your ingredients. Don't scramble around while you make this. Approach your sauce with confidence because it will smell your fear.
Finely chop one shallot and about a tablespoon of tarragon leaves. Place these in the smallest saucepan you have and add 1/4 cup of white wine vinegar. Bring this mixture to the boil and boil it until it reduces to about a tablespoon of liquid. It needs to be good and reduced or your sauce will be runny. Strain out the shallot and tarragon, pressing them against the sieve to extract all the flavor, and set the liquid aside.
Melt one and a half sticks of butter in the microwave in a pitcher. Set this aside.
Separate one egg. You'll only need the yolk, but you can save the white to make delicious Bourbon sours which your husband might make for you while you're cooking. Set the yolk aside.
Finely chop another tablespoon of tarragon leaves. Set aside.
Make the sauce. Put your egg yolk and the vinegar reduction in a sauce pan and before you even think of putting it on the burner, whisk it until it turns pale gold -- a good minute or two. Now, put your burner on low and place the pan on the burner. Continue to whisk for another 30 seconds or so. Dip your finger into the egg yolk mixture and touch the bottom of your pan. As you make this sauce, you should always be able to touch the bottom of your pan for several seconds without it burning you. If it feels too hot, take your pan off the stove and work off the heat for a minute or so before you put it back on. Now start to drizzle your butter into the yolk mixture. Very very slowly. Drop by drop, whisking constantly. Keep checking the temperature of the bottom of your pan, dripping butter in, and whisking until you begin to see the glorious sauce thickening before your eyes. You might not need all the butter, but it's better to have it ready (you can save the extra in the fridge for another use. When the sauce is lovely and thick (but not as thick as mayonnaise), remove it from the heat and season it with salt (it takes quite a bit of salt) and add the reserved chopped tarragon. Serve immediately (probably with steak and french fries, but by no means limit yourself!).
So, to recap: low heat, slow dribbling of butter, constant whisking, constant checking of the temperature of the bottom of your pan, immediate consumption.
Listening to other people, and listening to yourself :: {Moroccan chicken}
Sometimes it takes forever before you hear what people have been saying to you all along.
Every year at college, we had a visiting artist. Their classes were always a bit different from the normal studio art classes. While the other professors really pushed and prodded you, the visiting artists took a bit more of a nurturing, supportive approach. One of these visiting artist seminars really went back to the basics. We didn't draw nude figures, we drew cones and spheres and cubes -- hardly poetic subject matters. At the end of the semester, we met one on one with the artist-teacher and she evaluated our work with us. I laid out my portfolio of cones, spheres, and cubes on the cement floor and we stood over them. After a long time, my teacher sat down in a chair and said, "Phoebe, there's a word. Vocare. It's Latin, and it means calling. I think this is your calling. I haven't said this to anyone for a very long time." I stared blankly at my shapes, and didn't listen.
I didn't listen lots of other times, too, when my painting professor would beg me not to audition for the theatre productions because he said it split my creative focus and that my work suffered greatly for it. I didn't listen when my drawing professor told us to do gestural drawings of the whole space, and I zeroed in on the model's face and started drawing her features. "Phoebe," she said, "we all know you can do the fancy stuff. Don't flatter yourself."
I didn't listen when my husband told me I should sketch something everyday. "I don't sketch. I'm not a sketcher. That's what makes me not an artist," I said. I've done lots of not listening.
Then it all caught up with me, and I heard everything at once. Sketch, do this, don't split your focus... Because, in fact, people have been trying to buy stuff that I've drawn for a very long time. So now I'm going to make that possible. Am I scared that everyone has changed their mind and doesn't want any of this after all? Of course I am. But that's not for me to decide. I'm a matter of days away from opening my Etsy shop, and of putting my work out into the world. It's going to be a small offering at first, but I'm actually proud of every single piece there. That's a first for me, and I guess it happened because I finally listened to what everyone said, and that meant listening to myself, too.
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| One such thing that people have tried to buy. Soon to be available for purchase at Feast! |
As a result of trying not to split my creative focus, I made a deal with myself that I wasn't going to cook a single new recipe until I opened my Etsy store. Here's something I've been cooking for a long time. It's one of my dad's favorites.
Moroccan Tagine of Chicken with Dates, Olives & Preserved Lemon
Tagines are culinary genius. The specially designed lid allows all the condensation to drip back into the cooking pot, which means you use less liquid and thusly have more concentrated flavors. They also turn cheap cuts of meat into silky, fragrant morsels. Don't have a tagine? Don't worry, you can still make this recipe in a dutch oven (or any heavy, covered skillet or pot), just adjust your liquid -- you may need to add a little more. The tagine I use is a European one with a cast iron bottom which allows me to cook on the stove. If you have a proper earthenware one, feel free to adapt this recipe for oven cooking. I also have a preserved lemon secret to pass on to you, so read on!
Start by making your preserved lemon my way: it takes 3 minutes instead of 3 days. Okay, it doesn't taste quite the same, but really, it's close enough. Peel one lemon with your vegetable peeler. Get every last bit of peel off, in nice long strips if you can. Put these in a mug. Now juice your lemon. Pour the juice over the peel. Add a heaping soup spoonful of kosher salt and mix it around, trying to submerge the peel in the juice. Place the mug in the microwave and microwave on high for two minutes. Set aside until needed. Give the peel a quick rinse before you use it. This will keep in the refrigerator for at least several days.
Toss four chicken legs in the following spice mixture: 1 tablespoon ground cumin, 2 teaspoons sweet paprika, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon turmeric, and 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon (or to taste) cayenne pepper. (I pull the skin off first, but you don't have to). Put the bottom of your tagine over medium heat and coat the bottom with olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the chicken legs and brown evenly, being careful not to let the spices burn. Set aside. Add a tiny bit more oil to your pan and add two small (or one large) onion, chopped. Chop four cloves of garlic, and add this when the onions are beginning to turn translucent. Stir around for a minute or two. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water or stock and nestle your chicken on top. As your liquid begins to come to the bubble, add your final ingredients: 10-15 giant green olives, halved; 6-8 giant dates, pitted and halved; and 2 strips of preserved lemon, chopped. Stir everything in your pot around to distribute your ingredients evenly, turn the heat to very low, put the lid on and walk away for 30 minutes. At this point, come back and make sure you have enough liquid in your pot. If it seems a little dry, add a bit more water or stock. Turn your chicken legs over and cover the pot. Walk away again. If your chicken legs have bones in them, I like to cook them for a good hour to hour and a half, or just until the meat starts to pull away from the bottom of the drumstick. If your chicken is boneless, obviously it requires less cooking time -- 45 minutes is ample.
Taste your tagine a season accordingly with either more chopped preserved lemon peel, lemon juice, salt, or pepper. Serve atop a bed of couscous and garnish with chopped fresh cilantro or flat leaf parsley. A salad of very thinly sliced fennel, orange segments, and thinly sliced radishes dressed with equal amounts of olive oil and lemon juice, plus salt and chopped parsley, is a perfect accompaniment.